(também publicado no Substack)
You may read part 1 here.
China: About ten years ago, I started providing
trade consultancy to some Chinese companies. For a couple of years, I had to
travel frequently to China – and that’s when I got to know the southern part of
the country. From the high Himalayan mountains of Yunnan 云南 to the softer Pacific hills of
Zhejiang 浙江, I have been to
the main tea plantation areas of China. What a shock, so many novelties! The
teas I tasted there were completely new to me – nothing like the kind we might
find in the tea shops of Lisbon. How is it possible to extract so many
different flavours and aromas from the same Camellia sinensis leaves without
adding new elements to them? And why were those teas not available in my
country before?
Myself in a tea plantation nearby Eshan, in Yunnan.
Before I proceed, I must say I am not a China scholar. One does not
become an expert on a place after spending only a few hundred hours there. For
instance, I love my wife’s origins: the city of Viseu and its surrounding
villages. I try to learn as much about it as possible so that I may pass on
some of those interests and affections to my kids. We spend some time there
throughout the year, but am I an expert on Viseu? Come on, I don’t live there!
No, I don’t feel like an expert on Viseu — and even less an expert on China. I’ve
been to the Middle Kingdom more than a dozen times, and I would simply like to
share some of my impressions about this fabulous culture, trying to keep
politics aside for now.
Zhejiang 浙江: China has many museums dedicated to tea, but there is only one China National Museum of Tea. This official museum is in the precious tea plantation of Longjing 龙井, a little village in Zhejiang province. Across the famous West Lake of Hangzhou 杭州市, a few miles further, you will find a wonderful light green plain nestled in the middle of dark green mountains and crossed by a small river. The museum has a wealth of information, a good collection of historic tea instruments, a library, nice shops, and a tea house where you may taste the signature specialty of this place: Longjing tea 龙井茶. This is a very delicate green tea with straight loose leaves, looking flat as if they were ironed, and extremely tender after being infused. These tea leaves can be eaten; they form the base of a delicate local dish consisting of prawns cooked with Longjing tea, which adds a slight bitterness and much elegance to the meal. To complete this experience, you may visit the villages of Longjing 龙井 and Mei Jia Wu 梅家坞, the ancient Buddhist statues of the Fei Lai Feng grottos 飞来峰 — which survived the Cultural Revolution thanks to university students and locals who resisted the Red Guards — as well as the beautiful West Lake 西湖 with its impressive pagodas and the imperial city of Hangzhou 杭州市.
| A beautiful tea room in Longjing, with a view to a tea plantation. |
Fujian 福建: Most Chinese tea in Lisbon during the
90s came from this province facing the Taiwan Strait. Like any Chinese
province, Fujian is a cosmos of diversity. I can share some thoughts on two of
the most well-known tea areas in Fujian: the Wuyi Mountains 武夷山 and Anxi 安溪县. In the north of the province lie the
Wuyi Mountains, where fine oolongs are produced alongside two fabulous black
teas: the smoky Lapsang Souchong and Da Hong Pao. The latter is very aromatic,
with notes reminding me of oak, cocoa, and prunes, and a velvety body if well
brewed — it is one of my favourites.
Like other great discoveries, these teas have curious stories behind
them. Da Hong Pao 大红袍 literally means
"Great Red Robe," which was allegedly given by the emperor to a man
who cured him of his illness with this tea. And the story of Lapsang Souchong 正山小种 goes like this: in a tea-producing
village, all the men were rounded up to go to war. As often happens, the
conflict lasted longer than expected, and when the farmers finally came home,
there was no time to properly dry their tea leaves for the market. They had to
improvise, so they gathered pine firewood and dried the leaves in its smoke.
The result was a strange new type of tea, but the clients loved it and demanded
the "accident" be repeated for future harvests.
| Destruction of the tea in Boston Harbor, December 16, 1773. |
One more story: the famous "Bohea" teas are the teas produced
in the Wuyi Mountains. In the local Hokkien dialect, the Wuyi Mountains (Wuyi
Shan) are called Bu-i-soa, which is why the English called what they sourced
from there "Bohea." The tea that Americans threw overboard during the
famous Boston Tea Party (1773) was mainly Bohea. Just imagine, what a waste!
Additionally, this Hokkien dialect explains a major etymological divide:
Portuguese, Slavic, Arabic, Turkish, Hindi, and Japanese call the drink like
the Mandarin Chinese – cha –, while other European languages call it like the
Hokkien dialect – te.
If we head south, the people of Anxi 安溪县 proudly declare they live in the
“Chinese Capital of Tea.” I’m sure they are not the only ones with that
pretension, but this is the place to get excellent white teas and my favourite
oolong of all: the extraordinary Tie Guan Yin 铁观音. Unfortunately, it is difficult to
buy decent Tie Guan Yin outside of Anxi. When you get these rolled, curly
leaves, your infusion will have a strong body and elegant aromatic notes of
peaches, apricots, and white flowers.
| Separating the twigs from the leaves of Tie Guan Yin tea in the Anxi market. |
If you are in Anxi, don't miss the lovely city of Xiamen 厦门市 (Amoy) facing the Taiwan Strait, and
the little island of Gulangyu 鼓浪屿 with its old merchants’ and diplomats’
colonial houses — once dubbed "the richest square mile on earth."
Once a hub of commerce between China and the West, Gulangyu is now a tourist
attraction with tropical gardens, a piano museum, and shops selling pearls and
craftworks. A special word must also go to Quanzhou 泉州, a beautiful city of around 7 million
people where satin was invented; it was a starting point for the maritime Silk
Road. I spent a few days there visiting temples of different religions and
using a bicycle to get around. I climbed Qingyuan Mountain 清源山 for beautiful views, saw the
harmonious statue of Laozi carved in granite over a thousand years ago during
the Song Dynasty, and visited a Shaolin temple where I saw young monks in their
robes learning martial arts. Well, enough of Fujian, or else I will start
buying plane tickets before I finish this text!
Yunnan 云南: Let’s get back to tea’s origins. In
the eastern continuation of the Himalayas, the mountains of Yunnan are where
everything began. In the year 2737 B.C., as the legend goes, the Chinese
Emperor Shen Nong was resting in the shade of a tree. Some leaves fell into his
cup of hot water and infused. The tree was a Camellia sinensis, and as he tried
the new drink, he felt reinvigorated. The mythic Tea Horse Road 茶马古道 starts here. Compressed into bricks,
tea was transported on the backs of donkeys and men through the mountains to
Tibet. Tibetans loved the tea, and in exchange, they provided the fantastic
horses the Chinese needed for expansion. This trade kept the route busy for
centuries. While the teas of Menghai 勐海县 and Xishuangbanna 西双版纳 are famous, Pu’er 普洱 tea is second to none. It is a very
dark tea because it is oxidized and fermented; it can be stored in a cellar
like vintage wine, its rough flavours growing softer and rounder over time,
shifting from notes of earth and iodine to woody aromas. I once imported Pu’er
from a village north of Eshan 峨山 at an altitude of 2,300m. Next time, I would
like to visit the picturesque historic places of Lincang 临沧市, Dali 大理, and Lijiang 丽江市. For now, I remember the astonishing
natural beauty of Shilin 石林, a "stone forest" near the capital
city of Kunming 昆明. Whether in the
cities or in rural areas, we see ethnic minorities speaking their local
languages, with women and girls wearing cheerful folkloric dresses that lift
our mood with colour and life.
A section of the Tea Horse Ancient Road - Cha Ma Gu Dao.
Next: In upcoming posts, I will write about the teas I tasted in
Macau, Hong Kong, and Japan. Japan has a completely different tea culture that
deserves our attention! I might also tell the story of my tea business and
share some references of other tea brands that I like. That’s all for today,
thanks for reading!
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